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Mardi 22 mars 2011 2 22 /03 /Mars /2011 09:25
DrapeauUK   go to english article

 

 

 

DrapeauFR

Cochrane - Villa O'Higgins (11-12/03/2011)

26 + 40 km parcourus

 

Une course contre la montre s'impose !
Nous devons impérativement rallier Villa O'Higgins en une journée afin d'attraper l'unique aâteau de la semaine qui effectue la traversée du lago O'Higgins en direction de El Chaltern (Argentine).
Vu que 200 kilomètres nous séparent de O'Higgins et vu qu'aucun bus ne peut nous y conduire, voici l'ordre du jour :

- 95 kilomètres de bus jusqu'au croisement qui va vers Puerto Yungay
- 30 kilomètres de vélo jusqu'à puerto Yungay
- La traversée en Ferry de la lagune (arriver impérativement avant 15 heures)
- Trouver sur le Ferry un véhicule qui pourra nous transporter jusqu'à O'Higgins.


Tout commence mal. Notre bus met une heure de plus que prévu pour nous déposer au croisement (je déteste définitivement les bus). ensuite, c'est Corinne qui à crevaisons sur crevaisons.
Nous espérons bien faire du « dedo » (auto-stop), mais aucun véhicule ne passe.
Et recrevaison et... un 4x4 passe et nous emmène jusqu'au port.

 

AR C Villa O Higgins 2
 Step 1, on a eu le ferry


Sur le ferry, pas de chance, seuls deux collectivos archi-pleins effectuent la traversée.
Pas grave, nous continuons en espérant que le dernier ferry de 18 heures nous enverra quelques 4x4.

Et non, rien, nada ! Et merde, et merde et putain de bordel de merde !!!!

 

CL E O Higgins 3
 Désespérément seuls !

 

Nous mettrons donc deux journées pour arriver à O'higgins, six heures après le départ du bateau, ayant pourtant réussi à chopper un 4x4  pour effectuer les dernier 30 kilomètres.

 

CL E O Higgins 2
 Lot de consolation, toujours aussi fascinant !


Arrivé à l'hostal « El Mosco », nous avons à peine le temps de nous lamenter que déjà Jorge, le patron, nous explique qu'il existe un passo pour rejoindre l'Argentine, le Passo Mayer.

Cela paraît un peu complexe comme passage, mais nous n'avons plus le choix, impossible d'attendre ici une semaine... la suite demain !

 

AR C Villa O Higgins 7

 Deux anglais (oups, j'ai oublié leur nom) et Aline et Jérémie, les derniers courageux

quittant O'Higgins ! Au passage, on a oublié de prendre vos adresses mail... écrivez-nous !

 

CL E O Higgins 1
 Définitivement à ne pas faire !

 


 

**

DrapeauUK

Cochrane - Villa O'Higgins (03/11-12/2011)

26 + 40 km cycled


After questionning around (to people in the village, in the tourism-office, etc) how we could get in time (=meaning tomorrow-evening) in Villa O'Higgins, it happens that there is a bus going 90kms further, leaving tomorrow at 9am : 
It would be a 2-hour-busride, then we would have to make 20kms by bike, then we should take an (intermediair) ferry over a lake (leaving at 13pm, 15pm or 17pm) and then it would be another 100kms to Villa O'Higgins (where we could try to have a lift).  It's our only option, so we go for it, but :
- the busride happened to take 3 hours (instead of 2), so they dropped us around noon (so the ferry of 13pm we could already forget);
- then, it was 30kms (of climbing) (instead of 20km) to reach the intermediair ferry (=so, also the ferry of 15pm began to be very short);
- then, on the bikes to make the 30 kms, we (=I) had 3 flat tyers in a row...

Now it's impossible to get the ferry of 15pm, meaning less chances to get a lift for the 100kms afterwards, meaning missing the ferry to Argentina tomorrow.

 

AR C Villa O Higgins 1
 It becomes 'stressy'...


Finally (while repearing the 3th flat tyre) a pick-up passes : he brings the fuel for the ferry of 15pm and he's willing to take us with him.
But finally, (although like this we caught the ferry of 15pm) all that stress was a little in vain, because... there was no (=not a single) car (to give us a lift)...
Our last little chance is that there is a car willing to take us on the ferry of 17pm.  But we cannot wait there, because it starts to rain and get cold, so the only choice we have is start to cycle, not to try to reach Villa O'Higgins (=that's impossible as it's 100kms and it's already past 4pm), but to stay warm. 

  

AR C Villa O Higgins 3
 People? here? (=they catch a huge salmon) : It are 'concierges' of 'big-properties'

 
We make more than 20kms, but around 7pm we lose all our hope, as again not a single car (of the ferry of 17pm) had passed.  It starts to rain hard and becomes freezing cold.  We wait a little more (never know that still one might pass) and finally we put up the tent (=disappointed, as now we'll have to stay one week in Villa O'Higgins = meaning we will not have time to make the 'Torres des Paine'-NP (=more South in Chile), and go from there to Punta Arenas (=which was on our program for this trip))...

 

The next day it is still wet and cold with a strong wind, and we're still down, as we know that on this very moment the ferry to Argentina is leaving... 

Still a more than 70kms to make and they are quiet heavy (with lots of climbing = we don't even know we'll arrive even today)...

 

AR C Villa O Higgins 5
  AR C Villa O Higgins 4

 

Finally (unless the 90kms by bus yesterday) we'll have made the Carretera almost entirely by bike. 

This last part (without any village or (as we could notice) without any passing cars) is very wild.
The many gletschers (=hanging glaciars) are very close and well observable here.

  

AR C Villa O Higgins 6
  CL E O Higgins 4

  

Around 4.30pm one pickup (=the first and only one) passes, but it is full-loaded (a family with kids, and in the back all their luggage and their own bikes... But when they see us (freezing in the cold wind) they propose themselves to take us (put our bikes on top of their stuff and (with the kids on the adults knees) there is just enough space for us inside... (=very tight, but yet very confortable in a warm car).

 

In Villa O'Higgins we go to the hostal 'El Mosque' of Jorge =a Spanish who settled here and you bet his (very well made and cosy) hostal is running like mad, with all the cyclists making the Carreterra and wanting to make it till the end (=till there's no more road to continue) = Maybe here it is even more 'el fin del mundo' then in Ushuaïa.

The little village (=1200 inhabitants?) is surrounded by snowy peaks (although it is the end of the Summer now).

AR C Villa O Higgins 8
 Sunset (Villa O'Higgins)

 

 

Par cyclocosmos.com - Publié dans : Chili Sur - Communauté : Voyages à vélo
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